The Real Augustus Bulleit Revealed

"Hi," said the voice on the phone. "I am the great great grandson of Augustus Bulleit." No, it was not someone who promotes Bulleit whiskeys for Diageo. This descendant wanted to explain why no one can find a record of Augustus Bulleit in Louisville.

He wasn't in Louisville.

Except for a brief transition period after he arrived from France in 1836, Augustus never lived in Louisville. He never distilled there, nor ran a bar, nor did any of the other things Diageo claims about him. "My grandmother never said anything about a secret bourbon recipe," said the caller, laughing.

The caller's information is supported by sources readily found online, although the sources don't always agree. All seem to agree on the year Augustus was born, 1806, but not on the place. It's either Belgium, Alsace-Lorraine, or France. My caller says France and explains the confusion. Augustus married a Belgian girl. (More on her later.) Alsace-Lorraine may also be correct, since it was still controlled by France when Augustus lived there. My caller also mentioned an earlier spelling of the name, Boilliat.

Augustus made his way to America at age 25 or maybe 30. He stayed briefly in Louisville but soon moved west, across the Ohio River to Harrison County, Indiana, where he married and settled down. His bride, Mary Julia Dulieu, was from Lanesville and they settled on a farm on Buck Creek near Dogwood. (See, this is already better than the made-up stuff.) They were married on April 29, 1841. She was 21, he was 35. In that same year, he became a naturalized American citizen.

They had nine children.

Augustus and Mary Julia appear in census records for both 1850 and 1860. In 1850, his occupation is given as 'miller.' In 1860 it's 'farmer.'

That he was a miller makes it probable he was a distiller too, at least on a small scale. Millers were typically paid in grain. Whatever they were given to mill, they would keep 5 to 7 percent of it in payment. In a community where everyone grew grain, no one needed to buy it, so a miller would either raise livestock and use his grain as feed, or distill it into whiskey for sale. Whiskey was desirable because it didn't spoil and always sold.

From family lore, my caller said Augustus may have operated a tavern at one time and may also have been in the lumber business, but both of those enterprises failed.

Mary Julia Dulieu Bulleit is buried in the Catholic cemetery in New Middletown. No one knows where Augustus is buried or even when he died. In 1860, at the age of 54, he got on a flatboat with some goods he intended to sell in New Orleans and was never seen nor heard from again.

While we may never know exactly how or where Augustus Bulleit died, just as we may never know where Bulleit Bourbon is made, at least now we know who Augustus Bulleit really was.
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On a Personal Note: Today is the last day of the month and I just want to thank Diageo for making March so much fun.

Diageo Sues Tennessee, Claims 77-Year-Old Law Is Unconstitutional

On Friday, Diageo filed suit against the director of Tennessee's Alcoholic Beverage Commission (TABC), challenging a 1937 Tennessee law that says distilled spirits manufactured in Tennessee must be stored in Tennessee, either in the county where manufactured or an adjacent county.

Contrary to some inaccurate earlier reporting, Diageo has not and does not intend to store (i.e., age) George Dickel Tennessee Whiskey outside of Tennessee. It has, however, stored some other products (presumably whiskeys) manufactured at the George Dickel Distillery outside of Tennessee at the Stitzel-Weller Distillery in Louisville. On March 20, Dickel was cited by the TABC for violating the 1937 law.

Although the law is 77-years-old, Diageo says this is the first time anyone has been cited for violating it.

Diageo claims the law is unconstitutional under the Commerce Clause. Ordinarily, the Commerce Clause says states cannot favor in-state producers over out-of-state producers who are similarly situated, but the 21st Amendment tends to trump the Commerce Clause when the state can show a compelling interest in orderly commerce in alcohol.

The suit complains that if it is obliged to follow the law, Diageo will have to either build additional storage capacity or move that manufacturing elsewhere, which will cost Tennessee jobs. It would also incur considerable cost moving the removed goods back to Tennessee.

It doesn't say what is being stored at Stitzel but goes to great pains to say it is not George Dickel Tennessee Whiskey. Diageo wants to be clear that it is not aging Dickel outside of Coffee County nor does it intend to.

Insiders say that if Diageo had let it be known this was its real concern before the whole Tennessee Whiskey standards kerfluffle, Tennessee's other distillers -- including Jack Daniel's -- would have been happy to support such a change in the law. Instead Diageo made everybody mad and is now suing to get its way, a harder path that could have been avoided.

Recently, jurisprudence in this area has changed a little bit so Diageo may have a chance of prevailing that it would not have had a few years ago. Even the District Court might find in Diageo's favor if the TABC can't credibly justify the requirement.

The ACDA Gives Its First Awards

What follows this short introduction is the press release from the American Craft Distillers Association (ACDA), announcing the results of its spirits competition. At least that's what it says it is, but rather than announcing the results, the release is a lot of words about how the entries were judged, with just the Best in Class and Best in Show winners listed at the end, followed by a link to the full list.

They got it backwards. I think I would have joyfully trumpeted the heroes and provided a link to the back room details. The paragraph just before the winners list is particularly self-conscious. Follow the link and you'll see what they may be trying to hide. This awards program suffers from the same sin as most. Too damn many awards given.

Despite the wordy process explanation, questions abound. Why are brandy and liqueurs lumped together in the same category? How can moonshine be a category when moonshine isn't a type?

Trade associations serve least when they succumb to the worst tendencies of their membership.

This whole thing rubbed me the wrong way, see how it rubs you.
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The American Craft Distillers Association (ACDA) announces today the results of its inaugural spirits competition. The inaugural American Craft Spirits Association spirits competition was held February 5th and 6th at Huber's Plantation Hall in Starlight, Indiana. Over 300 spirits were entered.

The Judging Board, consisting of Ted Huber and David Pickerell, established five head judges in each of the competition categories: Whiskey, Gin, Rum, Brandy/Liqueur and Moonshine. Judges included distillers, spirits journalists, mixologists, and consultants to the trade.

The judging was conducted 'blind.'  None of the judges was allowed to observe the spirits prior to their being brought to them by stewards in flights. In some cases a spirit was submitted twice, to ensure that the determinations remained consistent from flight to flight.

A hundred-point numerical system was employed: 20 pts. - Color (appearance) 30 pts. - Nose (aroma) 30 pts. - Taste (flavor) 20 pts. - Finish (balance). Points alone were not used to determine the medalists. A subjective element was also considered: Bronze: "Is this a spirit you would buy?" Silver: "Is this a spirit you would seriously recommend to a friend?" Gold: "Is this a spirit you would buy for yourself as a special addition to your collection?"

The Best in Class determinations were made by re-judging the gold medalists in each category.

The Best of Show was chosen by a separate judging of the Best in Class winners. The medals were awarded on the merits determined by the judges. If they felt that no category merited a gold medal winner, no gold was granted. In the same manner, if they felt that multiple gold medals (or silver or bronze medals) were appropriate, they were awarded.

As a not-for-profit Trade Association, directed by licensed distillers for the benefit of licensed distillers, our greatest ambition is for the winners within the ACDA craft spirits competition to appreciate that they have achieved a great distinction for the quality of their products, and can assert with authority that, by jury of experts, they have merited awards of unqualified excellence.

Best In Class: 

Whiskey: Balcones Distilling, Cask Strength True Blue Corn Whiskey
Gin: Captive Spirits Distillery, Bourbon Barreled Big Gin
Rum: Louisiana Spirits, Spiced Bayou Rum
Brandy: San Juan Island Distillery, Apple Brandy
Moonshine: Dark Corner Distillery, Moonshine

Best In Show: 

Balcones Distilling, Cask Strength True Blue Corn Whiskey

A list of all the winners can be found [here] on the ACDA Website

Tennessee Whiskey Is Safe for Now

Earlier today, Tennessee lawmakers decided not to rewrite the law that defines Tennessee whiskey, at least not during their current session. This means the one-year-old law will remain in force for another year at least.

The proposal to change or repeal the law has been moved to summer study panels that will convene after this legislative session ends.

If you're just hearing about all this now, go here, here, and here for the background.

"We stand behind last year's law, we truly believe it's best for Tennessee whiskey all over the world," said Jeff Arnett, master distiller at Jack Daniel's. "For the players who've located in the state of Tennessee, we need to uphold these quality standards."

Brown-Forman, the company that owns Jack Daniel's, asked for last year's law to prevent new producers from interpreting the term 'Tennessee whiskey' as being any whiskey made in Tennessee. Currently, 99 percent of all Tennessee whiskey sold is Jack Daniel's.

Under last year's law, a Tennessee whiskey must meet the same standards that federal law requires for straight bourbon whiskey, with the additional requirement of filtering through sugar maple charcoal, a traditional Tennessee practice.

The effort to change the law was led by Diageo, the world's largest drinks company, which also declared victory.

"The Tennessee legislature has done the right thing and now, rather than having one company dictate for everyone, we can do this the right way and come together in an open forum to discuss how to create the best standards for Tennessee whiskey," said Guy L. Smith IV, Executive Vice President, Diageo North America. "In the meantime, we will continue to make George Dickel the same way we always have."

"This is a good day for Tennessee, for distillers big and small, and for consumers of Tennessee whiskey," said Smith.

On that we agree.

How Are You Paying For Your Craft Distillery?

Some people fund their craft distillery by sourcing and selling whiskey made by somebody else. Others do it with white spirits. Cardinal Spirits, in Bloomington, Indiana, is doing it by selling a proprietary whiskey glass.

As you can see, it's pretty similar to a Glencairn and works pretty much the same way too. They have some sciencey-sounding stuff you can read here, but really it's just a nice alternative to the Glencairn if you feel like trying something different. It's not as radical as the Neat glass, which may be a good thing. I like the Neat glass and it works well, but it somehow doesn't seem like a glass, more like something you float tea candles in. I rarely grab for it. The Blasadh (yes, that's what it's called) is different but not too different.

Blasadh, the literature says, is Scots Gaelic for "to taste."

There isn't much else going on at Cardinal, as they're just getting started, but they intend to make whiskey, gin, liqueurs, cordials, and vodka. I guess Cardinal's motto is, "Buy the glass so we can make something to put in it."

This is not aimed at Cardinal but at all craft distilleries. Don't make vodka. Really. And if you want to make gin, cordials, liqueurs, flavored vodka, 'moonshine,' or what have you, buy the GNS, don't make it. Why? Because GNS is the one thing a big industrial distillery can make better. It's not worth knocking yourself out for. There's really no point. There's no creativity involved, no real craft. There's craft in flavoring GNS, or there can be, but not in making it. You're just pulling out as much water as you can. That's an industrial process, not a craft.

I expect to hear a lot of hooey about artisan vodka and I'm not buying any of it. Vodka is flavorless. If it's not, it's not vodka and that's good, because not vodka is what we're looking for, not vodka.

A Tennessee Craft Distiller Speaks Out For High Standards

Diageo claims it is attacking the Tennessee whiskey standards law on behalf of 'the little guys,' Tennessee's emerging craft distilling community. Unfortunately for Diageo, the craft distillers aren't cooperating. Last week, the board of the Tennessee Distillers Guild, a group of 11 small distilleries, voted to support the current regulations.

Charlie and Andy Nelson, scions of a historic Tennessee distillery, Nelson's Greenbrier, also favor the high standards of the current rules. The Nelsons have been selling a sourced whiskey, called Belle Meade, while building their own distillery, which is being installed now. Their statement follows.
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We are the Nelson Brothers, and here's our position on Tennessee Whiskey: Tennessee Whiskey must be made from a fermented mash of at least 51 percent corn, aged in new, charred oak barrels, charcoal mellowed, and stored in Tennessee. Otherwise, it's just not Tennessee Whiskey.

For well over a century, Tennessee Whiskey has been produced with these traditional methods that have become increasingly respected and revered as an industry standard. Last year, that standard was codified and signed into law at the Tennessee State House, protecting one of the state's most valuable signature products.

As descendants of Charles Nelson, arguably the biggest name in the formative decades of Tennessee's commercial distilling industry, we hold a strong conviction that the standards governing the production of Tennessee Whiskey must be maintained. To relax even one of the defining regulations that make it a distinct product weakens the brand, and dilutes its value, changing a respected philosophy.

Our great-great-great grandfather understood this passionately and professionally. He produced other spirits using other methods under other labels, just as we are all still welcome to do. But in the late 1880s, he went to the State House to seek an official distinction for the product known as Tennessee Whiskey. Ironically, he was accompanied in his efforts by George Dickel, founder of the distillery now owned by Diageo, the international corporation now attempting to undo all these lengthy years of brand history and quality control. Both men, though competitors, understood the value of keeping the process pure in Tennessee, to them as businessmen, and presumably, to the economy of the state.

Generations later, we Nelsons no longer dominate the market -- not by a long shot! -- but we vehemently reject the notion that allowing Tennessee Whiskey to be produced in barrels that are not new will help craft distillers and the so-called "little guys." We are the little guys. We are craft distillers. It is in our best interests to produce and compete within our long-established guidelines. There still remains room for extraordinary creativity within these guidelines. We resent and oppose this attempt by an international corporation based far away from Tennessee to discredit and degrade the process of our state's beloved product and valued brand.

First President's Distillery Releases First Brandy

Spirits aficionados and history buffs gathered at New York City’s NoMad hotel Wednesday to enjoy a sip of history, as the presidents of George Washington’s Mount Vernon and the Distilled Spirits Council unveiled the first peach brandy distilled at George Washington’s Distillery in more than 200 years.

George Washington erected his 2,250-square-foot distillery in 1797, making it among the largest whiskey distilleries in early America. It was restored (2000-2007) with financial assistance from the beverage alcohol industry. The sale of spirits made at Washington's Distillery supports Mount Vernon, Washington's home and farm. A popular visitor destination, Mount Vernon is owned and operated by a private foundation, not the government. For visitors, Washington’s Distillery opens for the season on April 1st.

Four hundred bottles of Washington's peach brandy will go on sale at the Distillery & Gristmill Gift Shop on Tuesday, April 1. Vouchers needed to buy the brandy go on sale at 8 AM. It will cost $150 per 375ml bottle.

Why so much? Only a small amount was produced and, remember, it's partially a donation to help fund the work of Mount Vernon.

This unique peach brandy was recreated at the distillery in 2010 by a team of Distilled Spirits Council small distillers using 18th century techniques. It was double-distilled in copper pot stills heated by wood fires and aged for two years in toasted oak barrels. The team of master distillers, from some of America’s leading small distilleries, was led by Ted Huber, Huber’s Starlight Distillery (IN); Brian McKenzie, Finger Lakes Distilling (NY); Lance Winters, St. George Spirits (CA); Dave Pickerell, WhistlePig Whiskey (VT) and Hillrock Estate Distillery (NY); Joe Dangler, A. Smith Bowman Distillery (VA) and Scott Harris, Catoctin Creek Distilling Company (VA).

“There’s no better place to learn about George Washington’s entrepreneurial genius than at his whiskey distillery. Washington started the distillery in order to capitalize on the growing demand for rye whiskey, but he also used it to make liquors to serve to his guests,” said Curt Viebranz, President of George Washington's Mount Vernon. According to Washington’s records, peach brandy was distilled in limited quantities but was very popular for entertaining at the Mount Vernon mansion. 

Washington’s ledgers reveal that he sold only eight gallons of peach brandy in 1798, and a distillery ledger entry from 1799 shows 60 gallons of peach brandy  sent to the “Mount Vernon house” for entertaining.

“The reconstruction of George Washington’s Distillery has shone a bright light on America’s fascinating distilling heritage,” said Peter Cressy, President of the Distilled Spirits Council, which organized the New York tasting event. “It has captivated the public and helped energize the American whiskey renaissance. Further, Washington continues to be a role model for the entire industry with his lifelong personal commitment to moderation and responsibility.”

At the event Derek Brown, renowned drinks historian and owner of The Passenger and Columbia Room in Washington, D.C., created a colonial-style punch using Washington’s peach brandy. Brown’s well-researched recipe was similar to what Martha Washington might have served at her table at Mount Vernon. He also led a discussion on the history of brandy distilling and consumption in 18th century America.

Mount Vernon’s Manager of Historic Trades, Steve Bashore, offered tastings of the inaugural peach brandy as well as Washington’s rye whiskey, which was also produced at the reconstructed distillery. 

Two of the original distilling team members, Ted Huber of Huber’s Starlight Distillery (IN) and Brian McKenzie of Finger Lakes Distilling (NY), also participated in the event by showcasing some of their modern fruit brandies.

Also at the event, participants were able to preview a rare original piece of Washington’s correspondence about the distillery that will go on exhibit March 24th, at Mount Vernon’s Donald W. Reynolds Museum and Education Center. Just prior to his death in 1799, Washington wrote a letter to his nephew, Col. William A. Washington, discussing his successful distillery operation. In the letter, Washington described the “demand” for his whiskey in the region as “brisk” and requested his nephew’s assistance in procuring additional grain for the distillery.

The Distilled Spirits Council acquired the historic document for $18,800 at Christie’s New York auction house.

The reconstructed distillery is the only historic site in the country capable of showing the early American distilling process from seed to barrel. From April through October, visitors can see costumed distillers demonstrating the distillation process on a daily basis.